Crazy about Cab Franc

Of the Bordeaux varieties, Cabernet Franc has always been a favorite of mine. Usually a tad bit lighter in body compared to Cabernet Sauvignon, Franc generally offers supple tannins; a ripe, fruit-forward palate; and a hint of exotic spice. I have blogged about Cab Franc from boutique producers such as Titus, Crocker & Starr and David Arthur; now I can add Cornerstone Cellars to that list.

The 2010 Stepping Stone by Cornerstone Cabernet Franc is an approachable Napa Valley red with distinction. With savory aromas of red pepper and dried herbs, it is quite different than its Cabernet Sauvignon counterpart. This Franc offers super-smooth tannins, bright acidity, and luscious red berry flavors. Blended with 8% Merlot, this wine is aged in 100% French oak (50% new). It is youthful and bright; enjoy it now or hold on to it for a couple years.

Cabernet Franc is a unique wine because less than 3% of Napa Valley vineyards are planted to this varietal.  Cornerstone produces less than 800 cases of Cab Franc and sources the fruit from vineyards in St. Helena and Carneros. It was a great match for the homemade spaghetti Bolognese with sautéed mushrooms and fresh basil I cooked for dinner last week. At $35/bottle, this wine offers value and food-pairing flexibility. Find it in their Yountville Tasting Room, which is mentioned in my debut novel Where I Want to Be: A Wine Country Novel, or order it directly from their website. Cheers!

Domaine Serene lives up to high expectations...

I think a birthday--especially one that ends in a zero--is a great reason to open wines that you are holding onto for a special occasion. This past weekend, I celebrated my 30th birthday with friends and here are the wines we celebrated with:

• 2003 J Vintage Brut, Late Disgorged, Russian River Valley ($90/bottle)
• 2008 Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir ($65/bottle)
• 2007 Chappellet Pritchard Hill Cabernet Franc($65/bottle)
• 2006 Merryvale Profile ($175/bottle)

 

It would be a shame to not open bubbles on one's birthday, and the 2003 J Vintage Brut from the Russian River Valley was an incredible wine to start the evening with. This sparkler, a blend of 49% Pinot Noir, 49% Chardonnay, and 2% Pinot Meunier, was dry and crisp with lively acidity. Toasted almond, pear, baked bread flavors with a citrus finish--very tasty! Although we enjoyed this bottle at my house prior to going to dinner, it would have been an inspired match to the seared ahi crudo and raw oysters that we ordered as our first course.

Of the red wines that we opened to pair with dinner at Picco Restaurant, the 2008 Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley was everyone’s favorite! When I blogged about the Domaine Serene Yamhill Cuvée a few months back, I was very impressed with the wine and didn't think it could get any better than that. But the Evenstad Reserve, rated 94 points in Wine Enthusiast and 93 points in Wine Spectator, was a spectacular wine that is deserving of very high marks. It opened up beautifully with an elegant perfume and silky texture. In the glass, it was concentrated and powerful without sacrificing finesse. The palate offered effusive black cherry, ripe raspberry, sweet plum, and hints of licorice, herbs, and spice.  This wine was amazing on it’s own, but it paired perfectly with the Sonoma duck breast and leg confit.

The 2007 Chappellet Pritchard Hill Cab Franc was good, but I think it should have been decanted. It was still youthful with chewy tannins and a core of black fruit. It was a terrific complement to the Kobe Beef-style sliders with sautéed mushrooms, caramelized onions and blue cheese.

I was particularly excited about the Merryvale Profile. I conferred with a friend who works at the Merryvale Tasting Room in St. Helena and he said the 2006 vintage was drinking nicely. But as I found with a lot of the older vintages I tasted last month, the once-powerful 2006 Profile had mellowed considerably. It was almost too drinkable, if that makes sense. The tannins were soft and the fruit flavors were nuanced. I got more spice on the palate than anything else. I was expecting an extremely complex wine, but the cellaring seemed to have drawn out its complexities; for a 94-point wine according to Wine Enthusiast, [sadly] it didn’t wow me. 

By midnight, there wasn’t a single drop of wine left in any of the 14 wine glasses on our table. I had such a wonderful time and I'd say that the wines were enjoyed by all!

[This wines from J Winery and Domaine Serene were received as a sample from the winery; please click on the individual wines for links to the website for purchasing info.]

Cabernet deserves more than one day

After attending the Wine Bloggers Conference in Portland during August 17-21, I was rather “wined” out. But that didn’t last long. This past week, I started jonesing for something full-bodied and rich—it also happened to be #CabernetDay this past Thursday.

In the month of August, I tasted quite a few Cabernet Sauvignons that I didn’t get the chance to blog about. Here’s a re-cap of the highlights…

2010 Nadia Santa Barbara Highlands Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Barbara, $35/bottle): blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot. The palate expresses sweet blackberry jam and vanilla with hints of clove and tobacco. Solid tannin and structure, though young and tightly coiled. Aged 20 months in 100% new French oak. For the price, this wine is made extremely well. It shows great potential and it will most likely improve within 6 months to 1 year or more. This bottle was received as a sample courtesy of Laetitia Vineyards for review purposes.

2008 Ehler’s Estate One-Twenty over Eighty (Napa Valley, $45/bottle): smells like boysenberry jam with a hint of white pepper and tar. On the palate, this Cabernet Sauvignon delivers jammy, mouth-filling flavors of blackberry pie, toast, dusty cocoa, and vanilla. The wine finished with notes of lavender and tobacco. It was probably one of my favorite wines this last month; I wish I had another bottle to drink tonight!

2007 Hartwell Misté Hill Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley, $49/bottle): black currant, tar, black licorice, and roasted coffee. Velvety mouthfeel. I was told on a recent visit to the Hartwell Estate that this wine is designed to be enjoyed within 1-2 years of release. This particular vintage is starting to lose its freshness and the fruit flavors are fading, but it’s still drinkable. The 2008 vintage is drinking beautifully (as I’m sure th current vintage [2009] is as well!).

2007 Crocker & Starr Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley, $63/bottle): a delicious organically grown wine with cherry cola, exotic spice, mocha, and the faintest whisper of blueberry pie. Very aromatic and concentrated in the glass. Ready to drink. 

2008 Tamber Bey Deux Cheveux Vineyard Yountville “Rabicano” (Napa Valley, $48/bottle): Bordeaux-style blend with flavors of cherry cola, blueberry, pomegranate and clove. Very dark in the glass with rich and refined tannins. This wine could definitely hold for another 1-2 years.

2003 Divot Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley, price N/A): this wine showed it’s age in the glass; it was transparent with a brown rim. I was surprised that it smelled of sweet berries. Unfortunately, one sip convinced me that this wine was past its prime. The aromatics were misleading; the palate was a savory mix of dried herbs, earth, and mushroom.

2007 Ladera Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($41/bottle). In case you missed it, please read Tuesday’s blog post for a full review of this amazing wine.

On a sidenote, if you happen to be in the Tiburon neighborhood in Marin on a Sunday or Monday, please come visit me at Prima Palate (soon tobe Main Street Wine Bar). I have also been hired to manage the wine bar’s social media marketing efforts [yes, that is a shameless self-plug for my freelance/consulting business]. Thank you reading Sip Swirl Savor and cheers!

David Arthur Winery: incredible wines and views

The next time you plan a trip to the Napa Valley and you want to visit a winery that’s off the beaten path, make an appointment at David Arthur Winery, located to the east of the Silverado Trail north of Yountville.

The driveway is steeper and longer than you can imagine (it’s called “Long Ranch Road” for a reason!), but once you get to the top of Pritchard Hill, you’ll see that the trek was worth it. The views of the valley 1200 feet below are incredible!

I went for a tasting in September last year and, unfortunately, I forgot to take pictures. Don't make the same mistake! (The one above is from their website and does not do the beautiful views justice.)

I must have tasted ten different wines that day—they were some of the biggest, most intense mountain-grown wines I have ever tried. The one wine that I knew I had to go home with was the Cab Franc ($60/bottle).

After allowing this wine some time to mellow out in the bottle, I opened it this past Monday night. The 2009 David Arthur Cabernet Franc was just as big and intense as I remembered it!

Dark purple and very concentrated in the glass, this Franc has a perfume of black cherry, sweet blackberry jam, and violets. The palate is lush and effusive, offering layers of cherry cola, vanilla, star anise, and crème de cassis. Tannins are superfine and velvety. It ends with ripe berry and spice notes (and the urge to take another sip).

This wine was even better the second night, which tells me I could have held onto it a little longer (and that I should have gotten more than just the one bottle). The winery didn’t make much of it (less than 150 cases), as is usually the case with Napa-grown Cab Franc. If you can get your hands on some, don’t put off the pleasure of drinking it for too long!

Oh, and be sure to check out Chappellet and Ovid while you’re up there on Pritchard Hill!

The Vineyard Experience at Crocker & Starr

If you asked me today what my top ten favorite wines are, three from Crocker & Starr would definitely make the list.

My friend, Julie, and I received a warm welcome by winemaker Pam Starr at the Crocker & Starr Estate in St. Helena yesterday. We began the unique 'Vineyard Experience' on the porch of the farmhouse with a taste of the 2011 Sauvignon Blanc.

I have always loved the Crocker & Starr SB ($32/bottle). Made from organically grown grapes sourced from the Crocker Vineyard and the Hyde Las Trancas Vineyard in Oak Knoll, this wine is medium-bodied, fresh, and fruit-forward. It is aged sur lies, 96% stainless steel barrels and 4% new French oak barrels, which adds a wonderful creaminess to the mouthfeel and intensity to the flavors. Floral aromas with white peach, guava and citrus. Finishes clean with brilliant acidity.

In yesterday's 85+ degree temperatures, this wine was wonderfully refreshing!

Wine glass in hand, we walked from the porch to the edge of the vineyard. You can really hear the passion in Pam's voice as she talks about pruning and vineyard management, clones, and soil types. It was both fascinating and inspiring!

Eager to get out of the sun, we settled at the long walnut table (big enough to seat at least 8 people or more) under the arbor to taste the Estate red wines.

I have been enjoying Pam's wines for about three years now, and they remain consistently delicious year-to-year. As usual, the red wines were outstanding.

The 2009 Cab Franc smells like blueberry pie right out of the oven. The palate offers layers of sweet blueberry, cherry cola, herbs and baking spices (particularly cinnamon and cardamom). Luscious mouthfeel with dry, velvety tannins. The wine ends with lingering flavors of tobacco leaf and cocoa. This wine will age well but is very drinkable now. ($62/bottle, less than 500 cases)

The 2008 Stone Place Cabernet Sauvignon is dark, powerful, and concentrated. This 100% Cab shows rich, black fruit aromas. Blackberry jam and dark chocolate flavors are backed by firm tannins and hints of baking spice. Black licorice and sweet vanilla linger on the palate. Absolutely delicious! Aged in barrel for 20 months, 80% new French oak. I was actually shocked by how well this wine is showing upon release; but it definitely has the potential to improve over the next 10+ years. ($90/bottle, less than 500 cases)

Tours and tastings are available daily by appointment only. Definitely worth visiting! (photo below: Julie and I posing near a vintage wine press)

And I strongly recommend the Prime Rib French Dip sandwich at the Rutherford Grill afterwards. Mmmmmm.....

P.S. Pam also makes super-small amounts of wine specifically for the Crocker & Starr Casali Wine Club (the Malbec is amazing!) and she is the winemaking genius behind the Bridesmaid wines. A second label that she produces with Drew Nieman, the Bridesmaid Bordeaux-style blends are affordable and ready-to-drink. Perfect for summer!

My top 10 wines, plus a few more

Last night, I popped the cork on a bottle of 2008 Titus Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Franc. I love the Titus wines for a few reasons: by Napa standards, they are fairly priced, and they are designed to be enjoyed without prolonged aging after purchase. The winery is owned by Titus brothers Philip (the winemaker) and Eric (the grape grower). The vineyards are located just north of Deer Park Road at the northern end of St. Helena.

(Philip is also the winemaker for Chappellet Vineyards.)

I think the Titus Cab Franc is very drinkable. Aromas of dark berries and dried herbs fill the glass. The palate exhibits solid flavors of cherry cola and black currant give way to a smooth finish with notes of dark chocolate and black tea. Medium plus body, but drinkable on it’s own. Ripe, juicy, bold texture. Very smooth tannins.

“This wine is definitely in my top ten,” my boyfriend said after his second sip.

As much as I liked the wine, it made me think about my top ten list. After much internal debate, here it is:

1. Domaine Carneros Brut (because I could drink a glass of this sparkling everyday and never get tired of it)
2. Hope & Grace Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
3. Tamber Bey Deux Cheveux Cabernet Sauvignon
4. Chappellet Mountain Cuvee
5. Ladera Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
6. Hartwell Estate Vineyards Misté Hills Cabernet Sauvignon
7. Dutton-Goldfield Pinot Noir
8. Hyde de Villaine de La Guerra Chardonnay
9. Biale Black Chicken Zinfandel
10. T-Vine Grenache

Picking only ten wines for this list wasn’t easy. Here’s four more of my favorites:

11. Crocker & Starr Cab Franc
12. Terra Valentine Cabernet Sauvignon
13. Patz and Hall Pinot Noir
14. Swanson Merlot

I purposefully did not list a vintage for these wines because I have found them to be consistently good from year to year. Check 'em out!

A beautiful day at Chappellet

When I took a tour of Chappellet Winery on Pritchard Hill back in March of 2009, I fell in love--with the property and its breathtaking views, my enthusiastic tour guide Candice, and of course, the amazing wines. To this day, it has been one of the most memorable wine tours I have ever had because it's an experience, not just a wine tasting. Most tours begin with a conservative splash of something white and then you walk around the winery with an empty glass. At Chappellet, you begin with a glass of Chardonnay inside the 41-year-old winery before heading out into the vineyards, a few more bottles of wine in tow.

As part of the tour, you walk through the crushpad, where there is a lot of action this time of year. And in the vineyard, you are encouraged to sample grapes off the vine. On the tour I took last year, Candice spoke passionately about the family history while she poured us the 2006 Merlot; she talked about the terroir as we tasted the 2006 Mountain Cuvee; she went into detail about the organic farming techniques while she poured us the 2006 Malbec; she told us about the grafting process as we sipped the 2006 Las Piedras Bordeaux-style blend; and the winemaking process was discussed at length, accompanied by the 2006 Signature Cabernet Sauvignon.

The wines I tasted then have since sold out with the help of some very significant scores from James Laube at Wine Spectator. The 2006 and 2007 vintages of the Signature Cab both received 94 points, and the high-end Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon was awarded 96 points for the 2007, 2006 and 2005 vintages. You'll never find scores in the Spectator for the Malbec, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Syrah, Las Piedras, or Cab Franc; just enough of these wines are made to go out to wine club members and are not nationally distributed.

Now I lead most of the tours at Chappellet, and it's just as fun to give the tour as it is to experience it as a consumer. Of the wines that I pour each day, my favorite is the 2007 Pritchard Hill Cab Franc.

Blended with 11% Malbec and 10% Cab, this is a Cab Franc that is juicy and lush with terrific structure. The powerful aromas of cherry, cola, and violet leap from the glass and open up to a full body of ripe raspberry and cocoa flavors intertwined with delicate spice notes. Velvety tannins give way to a finish that is long and smooth.

I tell my customers how versatile this wine is, but I like it so much, I am happy to drink it regardless of what I may (or may not) be eating. I hope you'll come visit us at Chappellet and taste this wine for yourself before it sells out!

Paradigm in the Big Apple

Paradigm is a small winery in the Oakville appellation. On a day when our own Tasting Room was closed, we took a "field trip" to Paradigm and took a short walk through the vineyards with owner, Ren Harris. We tasted the current releases of Cab and Merlot, but the Cab Franc caught our interest. Considering it a "special occasion wine", we took it with us to New York.

Normally, I would pair the obvious Sangiovese or similar Italian varietal with Italian food, but the 2006 Paradigm Cab Franc paired beautifully with the rustic northern Italian fare at La Messeria in the Theatre District. After a glass of Prosecco, the Paradigm tasted rich and complex. It had enough acidity to hold up to the cheesy eggplant appetizer and enough earthiness to compliment the tagliatelle.

With ripe black cherry and juicy plum flavors up front, the mid-palate delivers subtle nuances of sage, cola and herbs, and leads to a long complex finish. This wine was particularly delicious with the main course, a delightfully spicy and perfectly roasted rabbit. Definitely worth lugging across the country!