Thursday, April 26, 2012

Great wines by the glass

As always, I had a great time at the bar at Picco last night (restaurantpicco.com) with a friend.

And as always, I started with a glass of pink bubbly.

The Simonnet-Febvre Brut rosé from Chablis is a darker, more magenta hue than most rosé, but it's very dry. With essence of strawberry and delicate bubbles, it was the perfect aperatif. It accompanied the avocado bruschetta perfectly.

My friend, who is just beginning to explore the wonderful world of wine, wanted something more fruit-forward and slightly sweet. The bartender, Luke, poured her a taste of 2010 Ceretto Blange Arneis from Alba--she loved it!

We also ordered the risotto, which featured beet greens, sweet corn, and lemon gremolata. To pair with the pasta, I wanted a Chardonnay. The wine list offered one from Napa and one from France. I opted for the 2009 Bouchard Chardonnay from Burgundy. It was a delicious and elegant example of Chardonnay.

True to it's Burgundian roots, this Chard was a light straw color in the glass with good acidity. It offered subtle notes of green apple, pear and mineral. It had none of the oaky or buttered popcorn flavors, which have become synonymous with Napa Chardonnays; for this reason, I typically avoid Napa Chardonnays. It's called "cougar juice" for a reason. (haha) 

When Luke asked if we would like anything else, it was hard to say no. I could easily have enjoyed another glass of the Bouchard!

Monday, April 23, 2012

Some decisions are easier than others

If you know me, you'll know that at times I can be frustratingly indecisive. I blame it on my birth sign. But sometimes it's because there are too many good options that it makes choosing difficult.

As much fun as it was to try some new Italian wines last weekend at Sociale, when I saw the Copain Tous Ensemble Pinot Noir from Anderson Valley on the wine list at dinner this past Saturday night, I had no hesitation in making a decision.

We were at Rose Pistola (rosepistolasf.com) after an exceedingly hot day in the Bay Area. The restaurant was lively without seeming crowded. A nice breeze blew in through the open window just beyond our table.

As you would expect from an establishment located in the heart of North Beach in San Francisco, the wine list included many Italian wines. The list was approximately 8 pages long, and I was glad to see that it offered options from all over the world. I recognized quite a few bottles from California and I also noticed that the mark-up was not excessive. I guess I wasn't the only one who noticed because there appeared to be a bottle of wine on every table around us.

We had not decided on any appetizers or entrees yet--they all looked delicious!--so ordering a bottle of Pinot Noir seemed like our best bet in terms of versatility. At $44 a bottle, the Copain Pinot was an excellent value.

Seconds after I closed the wine list, a manager (or sommelier?) approached our table and took our wine order. I was relieved when he collected the all-purpose wine glasses from the table and returned with Burgundy stemware. Finally, a restaurant that understands the importance of varietal-specific stemware!

He presented the bottle to me and placed the cork on the table. The wine was just as tasty as I remembered.

A beautiful bright red hue with a medium-light body, this wine offered floral aromas and good acidity. The palate was a delightful concoction of strawberry, cherry, and pomegranate flavors. The finish was short, but the wine was so easy to drink that the time that elapsed between sips was short, too.

Our dinner was delicious, and everything paired nicely with the wine. The menu was as diverse as the wine list, with many appetizers, soups and salads, pasta dishes, and large entrees. Spring vegetables and seasonal flavors were highlighted throughout the menu.

After much debate, we decided on the beef carpaccio and burrata with fava beans to start. These were both absolutely fabulous appetizers, especially with the warm focaccia bread they served. Each of us ordered a different pasta dish; I had the parpadelle with asparagus and pork sugo.

Our only complaint was the lack of follow-up after our main course was served. I am a big fan of pepper--I add more than most people do, so I prefer to have the pepper grinder on the table, within easy reach. Sprinkling pepper on my meal is in no way an insult to the chef, it's just my preference.

I've noticed more and more restaurants do not provide salt and pepper on the table. If they offer it to you when your meal is served, that's one thing, but we were not offered. My boyfriend waited patiently to get the attention of the staff to request pepper as his pasta got cold. Finally, we were able to flag down a busboy--apparently the restaurant had very few pepper grinders because he had to run all the way to the front of the restaurant to fetch one.

With some fresh pepper on the last few bites of my pasta, I was quite content. As we finished the wine, we considered the dessert options. Although they looked enticing, we decided we were too full for another bite.



I highly recommend Rose Pistola and I will definitely go back. And I just might have to join Copain's wine club to get regular shipments of their delicious Pinot Noir (copainwines.com).

Tuesday, April 17, 2012

He says, she says

Friday night, my boyfriend and I went to The Caprice in Tiburon for dinner. Afterwards, we both wanted to blog about it, so here is our joint review....

Pros: Great views. Good wine. Delicious dessert.
Cons: Mostly everything else.

In his words:

I live a short 5-minute walk away from The Caprice. I walk by it twice a day and have wanted to give it a try for quite a while. When I saw a LivingSocial deal for brunch, I thought that was perfect. And when I saw Juice in the City selling a similar deal some time later, I figured I should jump right on that neighborhood deal, too.

Thing is, I forgot about expiration date of the first voucher. By the time I realized it was going to expire, I was headed out of town on vacation and wasn't going to be able to use it. The management staff at The Caprice was really awesome and very nice about letting me use the voucher for dinner. I made reservations for us and was excited for a great dinner.

We had the perfect table in the corner, with views of the bay and the Golden Gate Bridge framing my gorgeous date perfectly.

As usual, I let her select the wine.

In my words:

When Doug handed me the wine list, I was surprised to see that I only recognized a handful of the wines (particularly the Gary Farrell Pinot Noir and the Bueyes Malbec from Mendoza). But I wasn't in the mood for Malbec and I was afraid the Gary Farrell might be a little too earthy for the occasion, so I asked for our server's advice.

He confessed that he wasn't familiar with the Pinots on the list, but that he would ask one of the other servers. Many minutes went by before he reappeared. I was starting to feel light-headed from hunger. 

When he returned, he said that the other server suggested the fruit-forward Paul Mathew Russian River Valley (TnT vineyard) Pinot Noir. At that point, I was ready to get the meal started and would have agreed to anything.

After many passings by and strange glances from our server, he finally returned and presented the bottle. I tasted and approved it — good, fruity, light-bodied — and he proceeded to pour the wine into all-purpose, non-crystal stemware. For a restaurant with such a top-notch reputation, I was shocked that they didn't have Burgundy glasses. 

In his words:

After the wine was served, our sever told us that bread would be right out. Before he hurried away again, we ordered the tuna tartare appetizer, which was really great. But, we were both very hungry, so it would have been great if the bread actually reached our table while we were awaiting our first course. 

Instead, 45 minutes later, the bread arrived on our table a few moments AFTER our entrees. Ummm, ok. 

After some internal debate, I had decided to go big and ordered the Filet Mignon. Now, I typically prefer my meat cooked medium-well. I know some people few this as a travesty, but knowing a filet is a thick slab of meat, I asked for the steak to be cooked close to medium. What I received would barely qualify as rare, but hey, it was still pretty tasty and I was starving — and our server never came by to check on us — so I ate it. The green beens and carrots that accompanied the filet were blanched and lightly steamed, but quickly became cold. But, worst of all — for a serious, oldskool mashed-potato-loving freak like me — the mashed potatoes really could not have been colder. This was pretty pathetic. How can you charge $27 for cold mashed potatoes? 

Now, after a very long day and after waiting so long for our entrees (without bread, while drinking quite a bit of wine) I destroyed that plate and ate every bite. I don't normally complain, but I would have if someone had stopped by to check on us — or at least, refill our wine glasses. By then, it was pretty obvious that no one really cared about our dining experience anyway. It sounded like there was a larger group downstairs, but otherwise, the restaurant was busy but not extremely crowded. 

In my words:

I wasn't impressed with my meal either. I ordered the duck with soft polenta, mushrooms, and sauteed spinach. It was an oversize portion (unfortunately). I've never been served duck still on the bone; Doug thought it tasted like brown turkey meat. I wouldn't disagree. And the spinach had absolutely no flavor. 

In his words:

Following dinner, the waiter did quickly make eye contact and asked us, 'Are you two doing well?' 

'Yes, I'm doing fantastic,' I said, but he didn't catch my inflection. I'm glad he asked about our state of being ... I'm pretty awesome and my date was even more so. However, it would have been really nice if he had asked us about the food. And, if that was timed to occur, say, shortly after we were served, that probably would have worked nicely.

Against our better judgement, and hoping to salvage the experience, we ordered their Warm Chocolate Cake dessert. It was fantastic! 

So, if you're looking for a restaurant with a great view where you can enjoy wine, apps, and dessert — The Caprice is awesome! If you'd like to enjoy your meal or have anything close to good service, dine elsewhere.

Regarding that second voucher I bought — it was $10 for a $30 value at The Caprice. I'm thinking the best deal would be not to use it at all. Then I only lose $10. If we go back, I would probably be spending another $100. You do the math.

The moral of the story: Now I understand why The Caprice is running so many voucher deals.

In my words:

All criticism aside, I had a fun evening. Although I wouldn't recommend the restaurant, I would recommend the Paul Mathew Pinot Noir (and suggest to my boyfriend that he only buy deals for restaurants he's been to before!). www.paulmathewvineyards.com 

Sunday, April 15, 2012

When in Rome...order Italian wine

I have a confession to make. I know very, very little about Italian wine.

As much as I would like to learn more--and drink more--Italian varietals, quality examples are hard to come by. There are many Italian restaurants in the Bay Area, but Californian wines seem to dominate wine lists everywhere. There's very little risk in ordering a bottle of wine that I've already had and liked, but I also realize I won't discover new wines by playing it safe.


Last night, I went to dinner at Sociale, a hidden gem of a restaurant in the Presidio Heights neighborhood of San Francisco. Sociale is a study in northern Italian fare--and a great place to expand one's knowledge of Italian wines. (www.sfsociale.com)

The wine list was expansive without being overwhelming. But it didn't speak my language. Although I spotted a few wines from Sonoma and Napa, I ignored them. As my eyes scanned the list, I recognized a few varietals (I've had a few mediocre Sangioveses in my life and I've read in the Wine Spectator that Brunello di Montalcinos are amazing but quite pricey), but I had no idea what to order.

Our server addressed our table within minutes of our arrival and told us about the specials. At our request, the sommelier appeared a moment later. I told him that we would prefer something red, fruit-forward, and in the $50-$60 price range. Without being pretentious or condescending, he recommended two wines that he promised were both fruit-forward and would pair well with most of the menu.

He suggested a Montepulciano ($60/bottle) that was complex but not too heavy and a Sangiovese (only $36/bottle) that was very fruity.

We opted for the 2008 Le Berne Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and although it was a little cold when first poured, it opened up nicely. It had luscious red cherry and currant flavors, good acidity, and a medium-plus body.

For our first course, we shared an order of the fried olives--absolutely delicious!--and the mushroom pot pie. The server also brought us a beet salad--on the house--which was light and tasty, too. I probably wouldn't order the pot pie again, if only because there were many other tempting options (like the duck meatballs).

And we enjoyed our wine so much that it was gone before our entrees arrived!

Sociale is a small, cozy space, so it didn't take me long to flag down the sommelier to order a second bottle. We decided to try his other recommendation; he poured the wine as our main course arrived.

The Sangiovese was very easy to drink; with bright red fruit and more acidity than the first wine. It complimented my arctic char surprisingly well. My dining companions ordered the quail and the spinach linguine with prawns; they didn't have any complaints either.

As our empty plates were cleared, we were surprised it was already 9 pm. Every table in the place was occupied; despite the low ceilings, we could still hear each other just fine and the service never suffered. The food was delicious, the sommelier was very helpful, and the waitstaff was there when needed.

Taking a risk on a couple bottles of Italian wine was a very good and pleasurable venture indeed!

Thursday, April 12, 2012

Wine and asparagus: a match made for me!

Last night when my boyfriend and I sat down to dinner, he looked at his plate and laughed. "You just might have been an asparagus in a past life," he joked. 

It's true. I'm an asparagus addict (luckily my boyfriend likes it, too). Whether roasted with olive oil and garlic, par-boiled and drizzled with a Dijon mustard vinaigrette, sauteed with bell peppers and soy sauce, or served with a runny egg on top, I could eat asparagus almost every day--and at any meal. It's a versatile vegetable that, contrary to what others may say, can be enjoyed with a wide array of wines.


For dinner last night, I cooked the asparagus on the stove top and dressed it with olive oil, lemon juice, and salt and pepper. It was accompanied by pan-seared pork chops with pesto and whole baked sweet potatoes. Sweet and savory. Yum!

A white or red wine (specifically a fruit-forward Pinot Noir) would have paired nicely with this meal. I had a bottle of 2010 Lucinda and Millie Mendocino County Chardonnay (www.lucindaandmillie.com) open from the night before, and it paired perfectly.

This lighter style of Chardonnay is made from organic grapes and 10% is aged in French oak. It is crisp and clean, with notes of green apple, melon, and citrus. And it's the most affordable wine I have ever enjoyed ($9.99 at Whole Foods)!

In fact, this entire meal was less than $20 (and purchased entirely at Whole Foods); it took less than an hour to prepare.

I'm not drinking much Sauvignon Blanc these days, but the grassy Sauv Blanc from Honig or a minerally Chablis would also have complimented this meal nicely; a sparkler (particularly Domaine Carneros Brut or Mumm Blanc de Blancs) would have also been a good match. Depending on how you prepare the asparagus and what the other components of the meal are, the wine-pairing possibilities are endless!



Monday, April 9, 2012

Old can be fabulous

As you might have guessed, I'm referring to aged wine. With a few bottles dating back a decade and more, I have been debating when to open them. It's hard to rationalize opening an aged bottle of wine--which could be worth hundreds of dollars--on a Tuesday night.

The Easter holiday provided the perfect opportunity to open a few of my "special occasion" wines. At the dinner party I attended, we opened and decanted a 1998 Silver Oak Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and a 2001 ZD Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

The host insisted on pouring the wines, but he didn't tell me which wine was which...

The first one he poured was brick-red in the glass with a brownish rim. It was almost transparent; the tannins caught in the neck of the decanter. The bouquet was very slight. The wine itself was quite mellow with nuances of tobacco, leather, and cherry liqueur. It was drinkable, but I wondered if it were past its prime.

I much preferred the second wine. It was more fruit forward, textured, and full-bodied. In the glass, it was a darker and more opaque than the first. The palate was more robust and powerful, with beautiful notes of ripe blackberry, cassis, and sweet vanilla.

Both wines were enjoyed by all of the guests and I was relieved that neither had gone bad after so many years.

I accurately guessed that the second wine was the ZD--it tasted more youthful to me.

Although not all wines get better with age, I would definitely recommend aging ZD Cab. For $55 a bottle at release, this is a wine that's built to last and it's affordable enough to buy more than one bottle (which is always a good idea).

Now that I've drank my one and only bottle of 2001 ZD Cab, I'm sad that I can't replace it!