Warming up with Terra Valentine

For my birthday two years ago, I visited Terra Valentine Winery on Spring Mountain. Curious about how my bottles of the 2005 Terra Valentine Spring Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon were ageing, I popped the cork on one the other day to pair with homemade risotto. As I stirred the risotto and slowly added chicken broth, white wine, cracked pepper, and parmesan cheese, I swirled and sipped my first glass of wine. The wine was very dry, with tannins that made me thirsty for water. The only aroma I detected was that of an almost medicinal-like smell that I wasn't sure I could appreciate.

During my tours at Chappellet, I routinely discuss the importance of serving temperature for wine. I talk about how serving a wine (white or red) at too cold of a temperature will mute the flavors and aromas of the wine. Sure enough, this bottle of 2005 Cab came straight out of my 59.6 degree cellar and I'll admit I was a little too quick to judge it.

After a bite of gouda, the wine tasted much better; the fat in the cheese quickly smoothed out the chalky tannins in the wine. And by the time I sat down with a big bowl of risotto, the wine had warmed up and finally revealed its true "colors". The medicinal aromas were replaced by notes of licorice, sage, cola and ripe cherry. The palate opened up nicely with bright flavors of juicy plum black cherry; the finish was long and fruity with a hint of espresso. Savoring my second glass, I was reminded by how much I love Terra Valentine's wines.

A beautiful day at Chappellet

When I took a tour of Chappellet Winery on Pritchard Hill back in March of 2009, I fell in love--with the property and its breathtaking views, my enthusiastic tour guide Candice, and of course, the amazing wines. To this day, it has been one of the most memorable wine tours I have ever had because it's an experience, not just a wine tasting. Most tours begin with a conservative splash of something white and then you walk around the winery with an empty glass. At Chappellet, you begin with a glass of Chardonnay inside the 41-year-old winery before heading out into the vineyards, a few more bottles of wine in tow.

As part of the tour, you walk through the crushpad, where there is a lot of action this time of year. And in the vineyard, you are encouraged to sample grapes off the vine. On the tour I took last year, Candice spoke passionately about the family history while she poured us the 2006 Merlot; she talked about the terroir as we tasted the 2006 Mountain Cuvee; she went into detail about the organic farming techniques while she poured us the 2006 Malbec; she told us about the grafting process as we sipped the 2006 Las Piedras Bordeaux-style blend; and the winemaking process was discussed at length, accompanied by the 2006 Signature Cabernet Sauvignon.

The wines I tasted then have since sold out with the help of some very significant scores from James Laube at Wine Spectator. The 2006 and 2007 vintages of the Signature Cab both received 94 points, and the high-end Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon was awarded 96 points for the 2007, 2006 and 2005 vintages. You'll never find scores in the Spectator for the Malbec, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Syrah, Las Piedras, or Cab Franc; just enough of these wines are made to go out to wine club members and are not nationally distributed.

Now I lead most of the tours at Chappellet, and it's just as fun to give the tour as it is to experience it as a consumer. Of the wines that I pour each day, my favorite is the 2007 Pritchard Hill Cab Franc.

Blended with 11% Malbec and 10% Cab, this is a Cab Franc that is juicy and lush with terrific structure. The powerful aromas of cherry, cola, and violet leap from the glass and open up to a full body of ripe raspberry and cocoa flavors intertwined with delicate spice notes. Velvety tannins give way to a finish that is long and smooth.

I tell my customers how versatile this wine is, but I like it so much, I am happy to drink it regardless of what I may (or may not) be eating. I hope you'll come visit us at Chappellet and taste this wine for yourself before it sells out!

Sip and be Merry

Since I began working at Merryvale Vineyards back in April, I have had little time to go wine tasting and therefore no new wineries to write about. After logging long hours at my desk as the Wine Club Manager, the only wines that I was drinking were the ones in the club shipments I was responsible for coordinating. Not that this is a bad thing; Merryvale produces a number of delicious and noteworthy wines.

In the almost five months I was employed at Merryvale, I immersed myself in Merryvale's diverse wine portfolio, including the 2006 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (rich and velvety), the 2006 Napa Valley Merlot (tight and concentrated--needs more time), the 2007 Oak Knoll Cabernet Sauvignon (solid), the 2007 Cab Franc (too dry and earthy for my likes), the 2007 Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay (tropical fruit flavors and subtle oak), the 2009 Juliana's Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (refreshing and fruity), and of course the legendary Profile, Merryvale's signature Bordeaux-style wine. The 2006 Profile is a beautiful blend with big tannins and a long shelf life. Although the 2007 Profile got 92 points from James Laube, it tastes under-developed and too jammy to drink right now.

I've never been much of a red Burgundy fan, but my favorite Merryvale wine is the $35 a bottle 2008 Carneros Pinot Noir. It's a light red hue in the glass, with aromas of sweet red berries, rose petal, and earth. Brandied cherry dances along the tongue, followed by mid-palate notes of herbs and spice. The finish is long and dry.

Being of light body and rich flavors, this wine is a terrific pairing with anything from pizza to paella. It also goes very well with dark chocolate.

Our journey to White Cottage in search of Sangiovese

About this time every year, White Cottage Ranch Winery releases their Howell Mountain Sangiovese. When I called this winery last summer to schedule a tour, I was amazed to hear that the Sangiovese had already sold out. Supposedly it sells out within days! In addition to the Sangiovese's popularity and thus brief availability, I've heard through the grapevine that White Cottage is a truly unique winery.

Was it worth the drive up to Angwin? Absolutely!

Mike, the Assistant Winemaker, came out to greet us. With a thick Boston accent and a friendly humor, he guided us to the well-polished table set with glasses and a tray of bread and olive oil. With a fireplace to our backs and big windows with views of the vineyards, I couldn't but feel right at home; this small parlor we were in exuded a warm coziness that many big wineries lack. Mike sat down with us and proceeded to open a crisp Chardonnay.

As we swirled the Chard, we admitted that we were particularly drawn to the Sangiovese. Mike assured us not to worry, that we'd get there in time (it's a good thing we cancelled our next appointment, we didn't leave until about 2 hours later!).

Before we tried the Sangiovese, we tasted the 2007 Contra Costa County Syrah (robust with gobs of vanilla and blackberry), 2006 Merlot (approachable and easy to drink), 2005 Cab Franc (wow, what a nose!), and two Cabs: 2006 "Risa" Cabernet Sauvignon and the 2005 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon.

Just as Mike was pulling the cork on the Howell Mountain Cab, we were joined by 4 walk-ins. They turned out to be Wine Club members, so they pulled up a chair and Mike grabbed extra glasses. The newcomers said they had been members for years, and they seemed particularly delighted to have arrived just in time for the Howell Mountain Cab. Undoubtedly, it was delicious--big and rich, with balanced fruit and earth, silky tannins and a long finish.

While keeping the atmosphere informal and light-hearted, the assistant winemaker shared lots of industry-related stories and vineyard-specific information about the wines as he poured them.

Finally, Mike brought out that bottle of the Sangiovese. Great acidity was balanced by a tight, mineral core while bright cherry fruit flavors and dusty tannins rounded out the palate. At $45 a bottle, it's not quite an everyday pizza wine, but it was very tasty. I highly recommend it (the Howell Mountain Cab was my second favorite).

One thing that all of these wines had in common was their accessibility; within seconds of being opened, these wines were in full form with attractive aromatics and overt flavors. When I'm not worried about keeping a wine for more than one day, I appreciate this kind of immediate gratification. I enjoyed all of the wines, even the Bordeaux-blend of jug wine that Mike opened last. I can't think of another Napa winery that produces wine in a jug. Indeed, a trip to White Cottage Ranch Winery is a very unique experience!

Long Meadow Ranch is open to the public!

Before Long Meadow Ranch refurbished the old Victorian on the property of Whiting's Nursery and the site of St. Helena's newest culinary establishment, Farmstead, I had seen the LMR label on a bottle of Sangiovese. This particular varietal has always intrigued and mystified me--especially when it's produced in Napa as opposed to Tuscany. Once the "open" sign appeared out front along the Highway, I was ready to check it LMR's new tasting room and their unfamiliar wines.

Unfortunately, the Sangiovese wasn't available to taste within the bright, simply designed venue located on the first floor of the Victorian (a St. Helena landmark). But I'm sure it was possible to buy a bottle and sip it while lounging near Farmstead's outdoor fireplace. (If this hadn't been our first stop, we might have done just that!)

The tasting comprised of the 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (light, grassy and refreshing), the 2006 "Ranch House Red" (approachable and affordable) and the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon (the perfect companion to a LMR steak), followed by an ounce of Estate Olive Oil (green and peppery).

These wines were rustic and simple, not complex or exclusive or pretentious. They parallel the unassuming, friendly air of the tasting room, but more importantly, their flavors match those of the organic vegetables and the grass-fed livestock grown on Long Meadow Ranch and offered on the menu at Farmstead. Check out the menu at www.longmeadowranch.com

Darioush: the Persian Palace in Napa Valley

The first time I went to Darioush Winery, I was overwhelmed by its grandiose architecture. Just driving past the tall gate and down the driveway lined with Persian columns, you know you're in for a visual treat. I felt a little like I was in a real life enactment of "Aladdin".

Once inside, you are welcomed into the hustle and bustle by an attractive concierge. You are directed to an empty spot at the tasting counter or to a private area where another smartly dressed

attendant will greet you; before your wines arrives is the perfect opportunity to feast your eyes on the palatial beauty of the Tasting Room and its ambassadors.

It amazes me how busy Darioush always is, but it never feels chaotic. The Darioush staff interacts with each other and the customers as if this were a ballet performance; it's an elegant experience provided by knowledgeable professionals (no dance attire, but no jeans, blue hair, or visible tattoos either).

The second time I visited Darioush in March 2009, I noticed a great improvement in the wines.

I really enjoyed the Pinot Noir and the Merlot and even the Chardonnay. Although Darioush is among many Napa Valley producers that bottle Syrah, Darioush is the only winery that I know of in the state of California (in the country maybe?) that calls it Shiraz.

In Australia, it's Shiraz. In America, it's usually referred to as Syrah. It's technically the same grape but it tastes differently depending on where it's grown. And Persians believe they were the original growers of this particular varietal, where they refer to it as Shiraz, too. But when I think of the more subtle differences between Shiraz and Syrah, tannin structure immediately c

omes to mind. The Australian version of this wine is always much bigger and tannic (sometimes with chunky, chalky, or ill-integrated tannins) than the American Syrah. So when I tasted the Darioush "Shiraz", I was pleasantly surprised by how smooth and approachable it was.

Most recently, I liked all of the wines I tasted at Darioush. The "Duel" (a Cab/Shiraz

blend, something that you won't see at any other winery) is still too tannic for my taste buds, but the Merlot (so opulent and plummy), the Cabernet Sauvignon (sturdy yet fruit-forward but a little pricey for my current income), and the Viognier (refreshing and delicious) stole my heart!

We stocked up on the Merlot and the Viognier, which in a good economy sells out by Labor Day. With a floral nose that leads to a medium body of tropical and stone fruits, and slightly sweet finish, this Viognier rivals any German Spatlese or even the fuller flavored Auslese. I highly recommend taking a bottle of the Darioush Viognier to Go Fish Restaurant in St. Helena. This is the perfect wine for sushi!

Blackbird on Main Street

Although the Cheers! St. Helena events are on hold until May, Cheers! To Taste events are going strong. These particular get-togethers are designed for industry peeps with the hopes of providing opportunities to make new connections and sip some good wine in the process.

Yesterday, the monthly Cheers! To Taste party was held at I. Wolk Gallery on Main Street in St. Helena, which was recently purchased by the folks who own Ma(i)sonry. Ma(i)sonry is a wine collective/living arts studio on Washington Street in Yountville. I love visiting Ma(i)sonry--great art, great wines, what's not to love? Last night was great because they brought the

Ma(i)sonry line up of wines to downtown St. Helena, including a bottle of Blackbird Vineyards, which is made by Aaron Potts and owned by Michael Polenski.

Each of the Blackbird wines (Illustrations, Contrarian, Paramour) is a blend of Merlot, Cab Franc, and sometimes Cab. At $90 a bottle, these are serious wines that are juicy, fruit-driven, elegant, and seriously good. As a big fan of Blackbird, that's what I opted for. I didn't even notice which of the above was listed on the bottle (I saw the birds, and I was sold!), and sure enough, it was delicious. Does anyone who went to the party last night which Blackbird wine this was?

A visit to Ma(i)sonry is both an aesthetically and palate pleasing experience. In addition to the Blackbird wines, they feature Brown Estate Zinfandels, Renteria, Rivera Vineyards, Pedras, Tamber Bey and more. These are tiny producers who don't have their own tasting rooms (same concept as Napa Wine Co., where Blackbird is bottled). Go to Ma(i)sonry on a warm sunny evening and sit outside. It's absolutely fabulous! (But even on a cold night, there is a huge outdoor firepit to keep you warm.)

As a side note, I'd like to add that I want to make this blog more interactive. If you have any questions about anything I write, please ask. Likewise, if there is a wine or winery that you'd like to know more about, let me know!

Wine and Honey at Honig

Since I "found" a bottle of 1998 Honig Cabernet Sauvignon in the cellar in the house where I live with my mother, I have been wanting to visit the Honig Winery for a tasting of their current releases. I had taken the 1998 Cab to dinner at Cook in St. Helena and it was still remarkably youthful and a delight to drink.

The current releases proved to be just as enjoyable. I forgot to ask what Honig's total case production is, but I know it's small. Set on an idyllic piece of property off Rutherford Road, their driveway lined with olive trees, this is a winery that has found their strengths and is sticking to what they do best: Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon.

They make two of each. The 2008 SB is a fruity with a mineral core and bright acidity; at $14 a bottle, it is very drinkable. The 2007 Reserve SB went through partial malo-lactic fermentation and is thus medium bodied with rounder flavors and less acidity. My vote was for the first of the two and it is what you'll find on store shelves.

My feelings were similar for the Cabs. The 2006 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon is approachable with silky tannins, dark fruit and cocoa flavors. The 2005 Bartollucci Vineyard Cab is more austere, with chewy tannins and pronounced earthiness. I rarely refer to wines as feminine and masculine, but in this case, the first was feminine (I went home with a bottle of this one), the second was masculine (my male tasting partner got a bottle of this one).

Honig means "honey" in German. In addition to the four wines discussed above, they also produce a late harvest Sauvignon Blanc, which was sweet and delicious, with honey undertones. They also bottle honey on the estate, and their olive trees are harvested by Round Pond.

You can do a tasting of this delicious olive oil at Round Pond; their olive oil tasting room is located just off Honig's driveway.

Winery exclusive wines at Franciscan

I have a very legitimate reason for neglecting my blog. (Well, a couple reasons if you count holiday fatigue and a cash flow that's more like a trickle.) I've been on vacation!

Hawaii is a funny place where Mai Tai's and fruity cocktails promulgate an authentic "island" experience. It almost seemed inappropriate to order a drink that didn't come with a little umbrella or a pineapple wedge. That being said, at every restaurant we dined, I carefully considered the wine list. I was upset that when I finally found some familiar and favorable wines, we were having brunch at the Mauna Kea and I just wasn't in the mood for (white or red) wine, not even Crocker & Starr Sauvignon Blanc (one of my favorite Napa Valley whites). I had a glass of J Cuvee sparkling wine instead!

So, for a week, I went wine-free. It wasn't too bad (the Mai Tai's were quite tasty, no wonder they are so popular!). But once I returned to the main land, with no job to go back to, I had nothing to do but go wine tasting. I know, rough life (enter sarcastic chuckle here)...

Franciscan Winery has been on my "go to" list for a while. It's on Hwy 29 and I drive by it at least once a day. I remember visiting the Tasting Room with its grandiose water fountain a number of years ago--and I recall liking the wines. I was glad to see that the inside of the Tasting Room hadn't changed much, lovely high ceilings, inviting fire place, built-in shelves for conveniently displaying cookbooks and wine coasters, the four-sided tasting bar.

The winemaking has since changed hands to a female winemaker, which is always nice to hear. I found all of the wines to be approachable and affordably priced. The 2005 Merlot smelled of sweet plums, with a full body of fruit and silky tannins. The 2006 Cab was nice, too, but I was especially impressed with more higher priced bottlings: the 2006 Magnificat ($50), the 2004 Winemaker's Reserve Cab ($100) and the 2005 Stylus ($75).

The Stylus, a winery-only exclusive, is a Bordeaux-inspired blend of Cab, Petite Verdot, Merlot and Malbec. It was incredibly smooth with luscious berry and sweet oak. The lingering blueberry flavors were complimented by the dark chocolate square they gave me on my way out. A very sweet finish, indeed!

Inventory Time with Pride

With all of the winery visits and tasting adventures we had in 2009, Matt and I have accumulated quite a collection. We're in the midst of taking inventory of our wines and organizing them; in doing so, I've discovered that we have quite a few bottles of Pride Mountain wines.

Our visit to Pride Mountain Vineyards over the summer was an exceptional experience, one that prompted Matt to return a few days later and stock up on the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 Vintner's Select Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 Pride Merlot and 2007 Viognier.

To get there, you take a very windy road up Spring Mountain almost to Sonoma. I suggest planning a visit on a clear, sunny day and taking a picnic--there is a great vista with a picnic table a few yards from the Tasting Room. Once you've made it all the way up to Pride, you'll want to take your time and stay awhile.

When we arrived for our tasting appointment, Russ was kind enough to take us for a tour of the property. He led us through the library (which with oversize plush leather chairs and dim lighting felt like a very cozy cigar lounge) and through the caves (where we tasted young wines and wines still in barrel). He also took us to the edge of the property which offered brilliant views of the mountain terrain and terraced vineyards.

The wines were all delicious (it was hard to pick a favorite). All Pride wines are estate grown, and the mountain fruit lends an earthy, robust quality to the red wines. The Chardonnay and Viognier are surprisingly fruit-forward with great minerality.

The 2006 Cab delivers rich dark fruit flavors supported on a frame of sturdy tannins and good acidity. Surprisingly, it's ready to drink now, but for those who are patient, this wines will only get better with age.