Neyers on the return

A few years ago, I was at a friend's house and we were thoroughly enjoying the Chardonnay and the Cab from Neyers Vineyards. We drank so much of each that it's surprising I even remember! So to see if my memory served me right, we decided to go to the winery (conveniently located on our way back to the Silverado Trail after visiting the Kuleto Estate; appointment necessary, but no tour required).

From Sage Canyon Road, all you can see is a small unassuming sign and a gravel driveway. The modest entrance opens up to the winery, an angular and modern wooden structure. As we walked up the stairs to the front door, Phoebe (a wine diva who handles the winery's direct sales, tasting room and office operations) greeted us warmly and walked us back to the tasting room. This small room was light and bright, with high ceilings and bare walls, a wine fridge in the corner, an armoire full of glasses, and a high table in the middle (just the basics).

We took our seats at the table as Phoebe grabbed two bottles of Chardonnay and poured the two for us side by side. She talked about the different vineyards that Neyers sources fruit from (some of which they own) as we sampled the two Chardonnays.

I was curious to learn how many different wines they produce--19! Of their 19 "current releases", they make 4 Chardonnays, 5 Syrahs, 3 Cabs, 6 Zinfandels, and 1 Merlot. Single vineyard, small production offerings--sounds a bit like another winery I wrote about recently minus the barns and extravagant gardens. At Neyers, the focus is completely on making delicious and complex wines.

Next, we tasted 2 Syrahs: the 2006 Syrah Hudson Vineyard and the 2007 Syrah Old Lakeville Road which was very revealing of the winemaker's able skills and the differences in terroir of these two vineyard sites. The Hudson was more earthy and tannic, a bigger boned wine that would be a great wine to lay down for a few years. And the Old Lakeville Road Syrah was quite the opposite; it was lush and exotic, with plenty of ripe fruit and a mineral core.

The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon AME was a solid wine with a hint of black olive and spice, but I really liked the Zinfandels, the 2006 Tofanelli Vineyards in particular. It was complex, with notes of plum and sweet oak.

The simplicity and personalized, intimate nature of this tasting made it very memorable. I look forward to opening my bottles of the Old Lakeville Road Syrah and the Tofanelli Zin in the very near future!

Making it up Sage Canyon Road to Kuleto's

For months now, I've been trying to make it up to Pat Kuleto's Estate Winery out on Sage Canyon Road, which is a very windy eastbound route that leads deep into Chiles Valley (between Napa and Sacramento). Finally, we made the appointment and the drive wasn't too bad--I was lucky enough to be the passenger, so I could thoroughly enjoy the views of Lake Hennessey to the right and lush green forests on the right.

Well, it was definitely worth the drive. Our tour guide, Rick, was just as excited to tell us about the property as we were to hear about it. After pouring us generous glasses of Rosato (enough to last us the length of the tour), Rick showed us around.

Every inch of the estate has been taken into consideration, from the man-made lake at the bottom of the ravine that supplies all of their water, to the vegetable garden and chicken coop, to the numerous benches (to enjoy the views) and the 19 pizza ovens (for all the special events at the winery).

The tasting room reminds me of an old friend's living room--it's both rustic and cozy (think Tuscany meets New Mexico), with plush leather couches and lots of candles. But because it wasn't too hot, we opted to sit outside on the terrace.

We tasted the 2006 Chardonnay, the 2007 Zinfandel, the 2006 Syrah, and the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon. They were all delicious--I liked them all (even the Chardonnay). We bought a bottle of the brand-new Sangiovese out of curiosity, and we are seriously considering joining the Wine Club, aptly dubbed the "Kingfish" Club--for people who like to eat like a king and drink like a fish. (I think it would be worth it to join the club just for the party invitations!).

Our drive up Sage Canyon Road would not have been complete without a visit to Neyers Vineyards and Chappellet Winery. Tune in tomorrow to hear more....

Post Office turned Tasting Room

I had been wine tasting before moving to the Napa Valley, but one winery that I don't know how I missed is Elizabeth Spencer. It was new to me when I moved here back in March, and I've been there about 3 times since. Conveniently, it is directly across the street from Rutherford Grill, so if your table's not ready, tasting at Elizabeth Spencer is a great way to kill some time and try some fantastic wines.

Originally the Rutherford Post Office, it became the tasting room for Elizabeth Spencer Wines in 1998. The wines are produced from fruit from various vineyards and thus, they deliver an eclectic and not-so-typical tasting menu--offering everything from Sauv Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Roussane, Chardonnay, Rose, Pinot Noir, Petite Sirah, Syrah, Merlot, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon.

At the Cheers event (an all-you-can-taste event in downtown St. Helena held on the first Friday of every month), I tasted the 2007 Grenache (it was definitely the highlight of the August Cheers). It stood out in my mind for it's ripe fruit flavors, medium-plus body, and immediate drinkability, and because Grenache is not that common in Napa Valley.

I highly recommend Elizabeth Spencer; their tasting room is quaint and cute and their staff are always friendly and informative. Although I have fond memories of the Pinot Noir and the Cabernet Sauvignon, I love the Grenache!

http://www.elizabethspencerwines.com/wines.html

Nickel and Nickel and lots of Cab

Some tasting rooms allow you to pop in for a quick tasting, others you need an appointment for, and some you have to commit to both a tour and tasting (some of which can last up to 2 hours). At Nickel & Nickel Vineyards, but we had no choice but to do a tour and tasting.

At 11:30 am on a recent Friday, we were waiting in the parlor at Nickel & Nickel quaffing the 2007 Searby Vineyard Chardonnay. The golden colored wine was pungent with oak and butter, but it's a style that is still loved by many (even if I'm not speaking for myself). The room, like the rest of the house, was traditionally decorated and impeccably maintained (we learned later that the house was built in the early 1900s). Our tour guide, Tim, told us a little bit about Nickel & Nickel's history, the philosophy behind making small-lot, single vineyard wines, and then asked us to leave our glasses before taking us outside into the garden.

Like it's sister winery, Far Niente, Nickel & Nickel has beautifully landscaped grounds. You didn't have to stop, to smell the roses here.

Tim was well-versed on every aspect of the winery. He showed us the old barn, which contains the lab, and the new barns (full of shiny stainless steel tanks) and the pristine crush pads (one for Chardonnay and the other for the red wines). He walked us through the underground cellar before leading us to a long table in a room downstairs from the parlor where our tour began. There were 4 glasses of Cabernet Sauvignon waiting for us.

Each wine was highly concentrated, with earthy flavors, and a tight mineral core. The Cab from the Tench Vineyard in Oakville was my favorite, but for $90 a bottle, I kept my credit card in my wallet. It was an informative and entertaining tour of such a well-maintained property; I highly recommend it.

Sipping in the Swanson Salon

A few years back, I went for a sit-down tasting at Swanson Vineyards with my mother, who was then a Wine Club member. Their "salon" is in a large Tuscan-inspired building that used to be home to the Swansons. My memories of that experience centered around the tasty pairings and the artwork on the walls; the wine was not as memorable.

But Swanson has recently taken on a new winemaker, Chris Phelps, who uses a different barrel regimen than the previous winemaker. I thought it wouldn't hurt to re-visit the Swanson Salon, and wow--I am so pleased we did!

When I called to make the appointment, I had been specifically told that the gates open 5 minutes before the appointment time and close 10 minutes later (if you miss that window, you miss your tasting appointment). Although punctuality is not one of my strengths, I made sure to be prompt.

For once it wasn't me who was running late--Brian, our wine educator, greeted us in the artfully adorned courtyard (I meant to ask about meaning behind the full-size teepee) and offered us a stemless glass of pink Rosato while he finished up with the previous group. We gratefully sipped the chilled Rosato (Italian for "Rose"), which was creamy and tasted faintly of strawberries soaked in brandy.

Once inside the octagonal shaped salon, the 10 visitors got situated at the custom-made, sea shell studded, octagonal shaped table. In front of each of us, there was a small plate of orange and white cheese with an edible flower, and a chocolate truffle poised on an upside-down sea shell at 12 o'clock. And of course, there were wine glasses: one white wine glass and two for red wine. In addition to this magnificent presentation, the room itself was worth noting--high ceilings displayed large paintings with whimsical themes (contrasted by farm animals) done by the local artist Ira Yaeger. In addition to table, the chandelier was also custom made and the fireplace was flown in from Paris (don't ask me how).

Brian slowly walked around the table, pouring the 2008 Pinot Grigio and telling us a bit of history about Swanson. The wine was bright with almost effervescent acidity and faint citrus notes; it was refreshing and would pair perfectly with oysters.

Next, we tasted the 2005 Merlot, which is really what Swanson is known for. I recently opened an older vintage of their Merlot that was vegetal with copper penny flavors (not really a flavor profile that I can enjoy), so I was blown away by how delicious the 2005 was. It was rich and ripe, with plum, black cherry, and velvety tannins. As I savored the last few drops of it, Brian poured a bottle of the 2005 Alexis and poured it into the elegant "Cornetto" Riedel decanter.

The Alexis is the Swanson's flagship Cab and named after their daughter, Alexis (she also runs the winery's marketing department). Up until the 2004 vintage, the Alexis was blended with Syrah, but the 2005 is predominantly Cab with small portions of Merlot and Cab Franc blended in. It tasted a little darker and a little tighter than the 2005 Merlot, and would definitely benefit from a little bottle aging. That being said, the Alexis is a very distinctive and impressive wine.

One benefit of having the last scheduled tasting of the day is that you're not rushed out. Brian insisted on pouring one more wine for us and gave us the choice between a sweet dessert wine (Eiswein) and the 2005 Petite Sirah. Not being a huge fan of dessert wines, I opted for the Petite Sirah, which was characteristically big and fleshy, but with a core of blueberry fruit and long pleasant finish.

After all of our glasses were empty, I was still most attracted to the Merlot, for its drinkability and because they offer it in half-bottles, which is sometimes just the right amount.

Round pond and great views

Now that I think about it, I don't recall seeing any round ponds when I went to visit the Round Pond Winery in Rutherford a couple months ago. We were directed outside for a tasting of three wines on the deck, which is right out of a Restoration Hardware catalogue with large umbrellas for shade and cozy benches for admiring the endless vineyards.

As we sat down, I noticed two Cabernet glasses and 1 Sauvignon Blanc glass, but the Cabs were poured for us first. Our guide explained that the Round Pond Sauv Blanc is so acidic that it's best to taste it last. She brought out tasty little bites prepared by the in-house chef to pair with each wine (2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, and the 2008 Sauvignon Blanc): a spoonful of pea soup, a tiny cheese tart, and something sweet to finish with the white wine. We weren't rushed, but the wines were so good they didn't stay in the glass long; the views were amazing.

It's probably about 80 degrees right now and if I weren't working, I would be sitting up on Round Pond's deck right now savoring their Sauvignon Blanc!

No Zinfandel on Zinfandel Lane

I went for a run tonight down Zinfandel Lane in St. Helena. I passed the vineyards of Del Dotto Winery and breezed through the rows of vines at Flora Springs Winery. Each row is marked by the varietal (Cab, Sangiovese, Merlot). Although you won't find much Zinfandel planted on this street, you will find some great wine.

The Flora Springs Tasting Room is a whimsical and controversial building next door to Dean & Deluca, less than a mile north of the winery itself. The Tasting Room caters to the younger

generation, with iMacs encouraging visitors to twitter about their experience, a disco ball and techno music thumping in the background.

For a more serious and sophisticated experience, plan a visit to

Kelham Vineyards on Zinfandel Lane. The austere gate opens to a driveway that leads into the vineyards, with the winery and tasting room to the left. The property is beautiful and lush with clean lines; both orderly and cozy at the same time. Make sure to visit on a day when you can sit outside under the canopy overlooking the perfectly manicured grounds and the large water fountain (which serves as a bath for the winery dogs).

Depending on the size of the winery, it's not uncommon to have the winemaker lead tours and pour wines for guests. But as Kelham's winemaker, Ron Nicholsen, ushered me to a table with a crisp white floor-length table cloth and various stemware, I felt a little star struck. In some ways, the Napa Valley can be a bit like Hollywood.

The setting was so enchanting, I think it would have been impossible to have not enjoyed the wines. We started with an oaked Sauvignon Blanc that was rich, round, and still maintained a fruity core. I know you know how I feel about Chardonnay, but the use of neutral oak made the 2007 Kelham Chardonnay a tropical fruit cocktail--a Chard that I didn't have to spit or pour out.

The red wines have seen some age; we tried a 2002, 2003, and 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon if my memory serves me right. We also tried three different vintages of the Merlot. I preferred the Merlots; they were soft and supple, with velvety tannins. One thing was true for all of the Kelham wines--they are food wines.

My FWE and I recently dined at Cook, a tiny Italian restaurant in St. Helena. We had a bottle of the 2001 Kelham Cab with an order of the mussels served in a tomato broth. I wasn't sure how the wine would taste with seafood (or tomatoes), but I liked the wine much more after just a single bite of food. For my main course, I ordered the pasta carbonara, and the wine went down easily with that, too!

Eating in with Paradigm

I lived in San Francisco for three years before making the leap to the Napa Valley, and there's a lot that I don't miss (the noise, the traffic, the lack of landscape), but I can't forget how easy it was to order in. You could get the customary Chinese food and pizza delivered, or you could

walk to the nearest restaurant and have your favorite dish ready in moments. Here, it's a little different. Some restaurants don't do take-out (Mustards, Press). And quick-food places like Dean & Deluca close by 7 pm.

Rutherford Grill might not be the healthiest fare, and last time they sent us home with all the sides and no meat, but the restaurant is nearby and they have our to-go order ready in about 20 minutes. When we placed an order on Sunday night, they didn't forget anything and they even included a complimentary order of cornbread (probably my favorite item on the menu).

For this mouth-watering spread of smoky ribs, roasted salmon, buttery mashed potatoes, juicy heirloom tomatoes, and cole slaw, we opened a bottle of 2005

Paradigm Cabernet Sauvignon. Many varietals would have been a good match (Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Rosé), but we decided on the Paradigm for it's convenient half-bottle size. This is a complex and polished Cab, with balanced fruit, earthiness, and long finish. Cherry-cola flavors and smooth tannins worked well with the ribs, but weren't overpowering for the salmon. The wine's textbook Oakville acidity nicely complimented the tomatoes.

Paradigm is a boutique winery off of Dwyer Road in Oakville; on the property, they grow Cab, Cab Franc, Merlot, Zinfandel and 1 acre of Petite Verdot (totaling 55 acres). The owner, Ren Harris, was kind enough to walk os through the vineyards, explaining soil types, watering methods, and canopy management. The wines are all very finely crafted by Heidi Barrett and quite delicious!

Hope, Grace, and some killer pork tenderloin

In addition to its fabulous restaurants, Yountville is home to a few tasting rooms that pour delicious wines and--luckily for us--pour until 6 pm (Hope & Grace Wines, Jessup Cellars, Girard, and Ma(i)sonry).

Last night, my fellow wine enthusiast (who, from here on out, will be affectionately referred to as my FWE) and I visited Hope & Grace, a quaint tasting room slash art gallery located right next door to Bouchon.

The art, including large format paintings, colorful blown glass items, and elegant sculpture, is almost as captivating as the wines. But it was these beautifully crafted wines (and their interesting labels) that we were most interested in.

I am an ABC kind of girl (Anything But Chardonnay), but Hope & Grace makes a very respectable Burgundian-style Chardonnay (their only white wine).

Their 2006 Santa Lucia Pinot Noir is a knock-out, with a full, luscious body, layers of ripe cherry fruit, and an earthy finish. It's both easy on the palate and on a winery professional's budget.

The rest of the line up was quite enjoyable--we tasted the Malbec (rich and round, with dark berry flavors), the Stag's Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon (refined and restrained, velvety tannins and delightfully long finish), the St. Helena Cab (structured and powerful, already very smooth), and the 2004 Hendricks Reserve (big, opulent, lush, a special-occasion Cab).

We thanked the Hope & Grace staff for their time and generosity and made our way to the bar at Ad Hoc, a Thomas Keller restaurant. With a half-bottle of the 2006 Larkin Cab Franc (yum, yum, yum) and the

insistence of the two chatty women next to us at the bar, we ordered the full prix-fixe menu: smoked salmon blini with a soft-poached egg and lettuces to start, pork tenderloin stuffed with smoky sauteéd mushrooms and grilled peaches was the main course, a selection of artisanal cheeses followed, and a chocolate dome to finish. What a decadent evening!

Pairing Cabernet with heirloom tomatoes

Anyone living in the greater Bay Area knows that it was hot, hot, hot yesterday. It was the kind of oppressive heat that makes you want to turn on the A/C and stay out of the kitchen. But I had a surplus of fresh heirloom tomatoes from my mother's garden--it would have been a sin to let them go bad!

My dinner guest drove down from Yountville, and Domaine Chandon was conveniently on the way. We went tasting there about 4 months ago, and between the two of us, we tasted 8 or 9 different sparkling wines. Domaine Chandon pours for hundreds of visitors each day, but it is a beautiful property with tasty offerings that should not be overlooked. Our favorites were Etoile Brut and the Etoile Rosé. He so kindly brought a bottle of the Etoile Brut, which, after put in the freezer for 5 minutes, was the ultimate refresher.

Whereas the sparkling Rosé is ripe with strawberry flavors and a girlish pink in the glass (great with cheese), the Brut is dry and zesty. Aged "sur lees" for 5 years, this Chardonnay/Pinot Noir blend has buttered toast and honey aromas. On the palate, vibrant acidity is balanced by citrus, hazelnuts and baked apple. This is an elegant bubbly for any time of the day (anyone for a mimosa?).

Once we settled down for dinner, we were ready for a glass of red wine. Sangiovese is a no-fail red varietal for pairing with Italian-inspired cuisine, but Napa is "Cab Country", and that's what prevails in my wine fridge.

I selected a bottle of 2005 Hoopes Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, a medium-bodied Cabernet from Oakville with bright cherry notes, smooth tannins, and good acidity. It turned out to be the perfect accompaniment to the heirloom tomato bruschetta and the roast chicken and ratatouille that followed.

The 2005 Hoopes Cab is sold out, but the 2006 is just as good!

White Wine du Jour

It sounds like all I drink is Sauvignon Blanc. But just wait until the weather cools...

After a brutally boring meeting that began late this morning and lasted more than 90 minutes, I suggested to my manager that we treat ourselves to lunch somewhere. Feeling celebratory for really no reason at all, we decided on Bouchon, an upscale French Bistro in neighboring Yountville. Although I frequent the Bouchon Bakery more often than not (best coffee in the Napa Valley, I swear!), I have only been to Bouchon, the restaurant, once--and it was for dinner about two weeks ago. It was a very pleasant experience, and going for lunch there sounded perfect. We grabbed a bottle of 2008 Crocker & Starr Sauvignon Blanc and were on our way.

Stepping inside Bouchon is like arriving in Paris for the first time. It is both whimsical and serious--seriously French, that is. They serve the same menu for both lunch and dinner, but although I was somewhat familiar with the typical bistro offerings, it was still a difficult decision. The halibut seemed to be speaking to me right off the paper menu, but so did the moules frites, and the tartine du jour (an open-faced steak sandwich dressed with caramelized onions and roquefort)--it all had me salivating.

As I applied a thick layer of butter to the fresh "epi" baguette from next door, the server popped the cork on our bottle of wine. This is a Sauvignon Blanc unlike any other I've tried. Surprisingly, it is 100% SB, a blend of fruit from Charlie Crocker's St. Helena vineyard and the Hyde Las Trancas Vineyard in Napa. The "Starr" part of the label is Pam Starr, the winemaker; I love supporting female winemakers, especially when they make kick-ass wines. The Crocker & Starr Cab Franc definitely deserves an honorable mention.

The intricate and profound bouquet give some inclination to the wine's complexity. Asian pear and baked Granny Smith apple aromas lead to a medium-plus body of honey, tart green apple, Meyer lemon, spice, and balanced acidity. There is a subtle floral character to this wine as well as a minerality that reminds you that, yes, this is Sauvignon Blanc.

As I mentioned yesterday, supposedly there are 396 wineries in the Napa Valley, but, to my knowledge, this figure does not include producers that make their wine at custom-crush facilities or wineries represented in collective tasting rooms. Crocker & Starr wines are made at a custom crush facility in Oakville and can be purchased at Cult Wine Central or Acme Fine Wines.

I was in heaven from about 12:30 to 2 pm today. I savored every last sip of this wine and polished off my plate of seared halibut, fresh heirloom tomatoes, and the frites of my dining companions. Now, if only we had brought a bottle of Dolce for the cheese plate!

State of the Art

We were introduced to the Cade wines at the Plumpjack hospitality party at the beginning of the summer. As we walked onto the idyllic and lush Plumpjack property, the staff greeted us with a casual hello and a glass of perfectly chilled 2007 Cade Sauvignon Blanc wine. It was a very hot afternoon, and the wine, brimming with citrus fruit and bright acidity, tasted so very refreshing. We also sampled the Plumpjack current releases: the smoky 2006 Syrah and the full-bodied 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon.

The Cade label reminded me of the article I had just read in Wine Spectator. The write-up described the Cade creator's "green" mission and mentioned the LEED certification they are striving for. As a conservationist, I was intrigued. As the citrusy Sauvignon Blanc in my glass quickly disappeared, I made a mental note to visit the winery soon.

Last week, we finally found ourselves on Howell Mountain, climbing the steep driveway to Cade. The views from the winery were breathtaking; I kicked myself for not bringing a camera. One of these days, I will have an iPhone and remembering to pack a camera will not be an issue.

DJ, the Hospitality Manager, a knowledgeable and highly passionate blonde who used to run a cooking school with her husband, Ken, poured us the 2008 Cade Sauvignon Blanc and pointed out Mount Diablo in the far distance (yes, you could see all the way to the East Bay).

As we sipped and swirled the grassy new vintage, DJ listed off the various sustainable aspects of the building--I was amazed to hear about the inverted roof, which collects rain water; the roof is also painted with environmentally friendly paint that reflects the sunlight so the A/C doesn't have to work as hard; the gravel in the foyer is recycled; the blending table was previously a submarine; and, perhaps most incredible, the architect used shredded blue jeans for insulation (I hope they weren't Rock n' Republics!).

We sat in awe in ultra modern chairs as DJ poured us the 2006 Cade Cuvee and then the 2006 Cade Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon. The last was a wine I wanted to buy and put away in my imaginary cellar for 5-10 years.

The tour is followed by a sit-down tasting with food pairings prepared by Ken, the in-house Chef. Go to cadewinery.com for more info!

From the Beginning

When I moved to the Napa Valley in March of this year, I knew I had my work cut out for me. 396 wineries, over 100 restaurants, so much to eat and drink. I quickly connected with a fellow foodie and wine enthusiast, and together we decided to visit each and every one of them. We claim that it's all in the name of research and development, but it hardly can be considered work.

We work at one of these wineries, and we always joke about what a tough job it is. We pour, taste, and talk about wine for a living. And, with endless rows of vines, green mountains in the distance, and long sunny days, we live in one of the most beautiful parts of the country. Are we spoiled or what?

Our wine tasting agenda was established the day we met; when we left work, we made the short drive to Alpha Omega Winery in Rutherford, right off of Highway 29. It's one of the few that is open until 6 pm. Check out the website at aowinery.com

We started with the 2008 Sauvignon Blanc. It was very aromatic, with a pale golden hue. On the palate, it was crisp, with nuances of fresh-cut grass and citrus. With our Reidel stemware in hand, we wandered out to the patio, sinking into big fluffy chairs. We soaked up the late-afternoon sun and enjoyed the faint spray of the water fountain. I've heard stories of patrons falling asleep on the patio; I can see how easily this could happen!

Our informative and personable guide arrived at our side with a decanter of the 2006 Syrah. She elegantly poured us a sample of this dark purple nectar. I held it up to the light, noting its thin, quick-moving legs. If I recall correctly, aromas of sugared plum and candied fruit led to a medium-plus body of sweet cassis and dark berries. What this wine lacked in complexity, it made for in intensity. I could still taste it's sweetness as I handed over my credit card in exchange for a bottle of the Sauv Blanc. Very cool triangular-shaped gift bags; nice touch.

That was almost 5 months and about 50 wineries ago....