The Atlas Peak Advantages

I’ve always had an affinity for mountain-grown wines, so when I received an invitation to a luncheon and tasting organized by the Atlas Peak Appellation Association (APAA), I quickly confirmed my attendance.

Prior to the luncheon last week, I don’t think I had ever tasted a wine from the Atlas Peak AVA. It was an enlightening experience. Approved as an American Viticultural Area in 1992, the region includes Soda Canyon and Foss Valley and ranges in elevation from 760 feet above sea level to the highest point of its namesake (the Atlas Peak itself stands at 2663 feet in elevation). This region is not new to the wine-producing landscape of the Napa Valley; in fact, grapes have been grown here since 1870! Located east of Yountville and above the Stags Leap District, Atlas Peak covers 11,400 acres. Only 1,500 acres have been planted, which is a teeny-tiny number compared to the total vineyard acreage planted in the Napa Valley.

With its diverse micro-climates, treacherous terrain and limited access (there are only two very narrow roads in and out), it can be hard to imagine why anyone would want to develop a vineyard site in Atlas Peak.

When asked this very question, Doug Hill of Hill Family Estate Winery just laughed. As a vineyard manager, grape grower, and vintner, Doug talked about the surplus of challenges involved with growing grapes in Atlas Peak. The soil is thin and extremely rocky. Preventing soil erosion on these steep slopes and irrigating the vines is tricky. Also, all the farming must be done by hand, which is more costly. And yet Doug and other APAA-members saw the potential in this area and agreed that the additional effort required to farm this land has been a worthwhile venture. Fortunately, this region gets a good amount of rainfall and there are natural springs throughout.

Another advantage of this AVA is that it’s above the fog line which allows for long, sunny days and more consistent temperatures than the valley floor. Michael Parmenter of VinRoc Wine Caves explained that the grapes benefit from additional hours of sunlight and the rocky soils stay warm at night so there is a smaller shift in temperature from day to night. The elevation also shields the vines from heat spikes. On Michael’s property, we witnessed how diverse the climes of Atlas Peak can be. Only twenty feet from the front of his house where it was warm and sunny, the wind picked up and the temperature dropped noticeably! For this reason, grapes within the same vineyard—even on the same vine—mature at different speeds, which makes picking at optimal ripeness all the more grueling and time-consuming. The harvest of red grapes in Atlas Peak usually begins the first week of October and takes a full month before completion.

Jan Krupp, the founder of Krupp Brothers and Stagecoach Vineyard, is known as a visionary. When he sold his medical practice in 1998 to pursue his dreams of creating a vineyard to rival that of Chateau Margaux, he was not intimidated by the formidable terroir of Atlas Peak. Jan was captivated with the rich soils and rocky nature of this AVA and he was determined to make world-class Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc here. Due to the adverse growing conditions, vines on Atlas Peak “struggle”, which equates to small yields and tiny berries. These highly concentrated grapes offer superior intensity of color and tannins, as well as a greater potential to age these wines—just the qualities Jan was determined to achieve in his vineyards. He farms the Bordeaux varietals and 13 more varieties in his mountainous vineyards. Under the Krupp Brothers label, he only makes about 7,000 cases of wine but his vineyards are capable of producing as many as 133,000 cases. He sells the surplus fruit to 80 different wineries.

For the luncheon and tasting, we were hosted at Antica Napa Valley by Glenn Salva, who has been the Estate Manager at this property since 1985. Similar to the Krupp Brothers, Antica sells as much as 90% of the fruit they grow in Atlas Peak. Of their total planted acreage, 50% is Cabernet Sauvignon; Chardonnay accounts for 25%; and the Bordeaux varietals and Sangiovese make up the balance. Owned by the Antinori family, Antica was named in 2006; it is the word for ‘ancient’ in Italian and also a blend of the family name and California. Today, this beautiful wine estate boasts breathtaking views; a 10,000-case annual production; and an Italian-trained chef.

The terrace at Antica Napa Valley was the perfect setting to enjoy some stellar wines, which represented a variety of styles. I highly recommend a trip up Soda Canyon Road, just be sure to call before you get there; Antica Napa Valley is by appointment only (as are the rest of the wineries in Atlas Peak). 

For the complete tasting notes of the APAA tasting, please click here. Cheers!

Notes from the Mount Veeder Spring Tasting

Set at the Golden Gate Club in the Presidio, with a beautiful backdrop of the Golden Gate Bridge on a crystal-clear afternoon, the Mount Veeder AVA Spring Tasting was a very civilized event. I appreciated the small, intimate nature of the venue (compared to the overwhelming vastness of Fort Mason). It wasn’t crowded and most of the winery representatives were the owners and winemakers (which is not usually the case at some of the bigger tastings).

 

Mount Veeder Summit

 Most of the producers at this event were teeny-tiny, some only produce a few hundred cases, many of which were new to my taste buds.  I was impressed by almost everything I tried. What can I say…I’ve always been a fan of mountain fruit.

I started in one corner of the room with Chateau Potelle. I really enjoyed the 2009 Illegitimate ($37) from the Explorer collection. A crazy blend of 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 17% Zinfandel, and 11% Syrah, this wine is aromatic and full-bodied with bright fruit flavors and terrific food pairing potential. I can’t wait to check out their new tasting room in St. Helena!

I really enjoyed the two selections from Hess Collection. The 2009 19 Block Cuvee ($38) is a blend of mostly Cabernet (63%) and Malbec (20%) with a little Merlot, Syrah, and Petit Verdot. It is plush and powerful with velvety tannins and delicious dark berry notes. Although I can see how the 2009 Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon ($55)—82% Cab, 14% Malbec, 2% Merlot, 2% PV—could be cellared for many years to come, it’s already very approachable with all the ripe red fruit and concentration I expect from a mountain-grown wine. Both of these wines will only get better with time.

I was also charmed by the 2009 Y Rousseau Cabernet Sauvignon “Le Roi Soleil” ($65). This is a small producer that has recently doubled its production. Yannick Rousseau, founder and winemaker, also makes Russian River Valley Tannat, Mount Veeder Chardonnay, Sonoma Cab, and Colombard. The new tasting room will open in Napa soon. Check out their website for more info.

If you’re a Cab Franc fan like me, you’ll love the 2009 Yates Cheval ($48)! Delicious and dark and 100% Cab Franc, this beauty offers black cherry, plum, and spice. The Yates Family Vineyard is a family affair—Michael and Lynn Yates own the vineyards and the winery is staffed by their daughters Whitney (assistant winemaker) and Mary (CFO) and son-in-law Todd (sales and marketing). They also produce Merlot, Cab, and the super tasty Cab/Merlot/Cab Franc blend, the 2009 Alden Perry Reserve ($65).

Lampyridae Vineyards is another itty-bitty producer on the mountain with a well-known winemaker, Aaron Pott. The 2010 Communication Block Cabernet Sauvignon is very tasty. It’s a wine project that supports a local charity which promotes academic achievement for children who have severe communication needs. Awwww!

Wow, normally I don’t have this many wines to rave about from a single tasting, but I also have to mention the Foyt and Meadowcroft Cabernets. These delicious wines are showcased at Corner Stone in Sonoma.

 

Last but not least, the three wines (Malbec, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon) from Mt. Brave Winery are all gorgeous. The Malbec ($75) was particularly appealing; this dark-purple beauty is concentrated with raspberry and cassis flavors with a full and luxurious palate.

A special thank you to the Mount Veeder Council for putting this awesome tasting together. More info about Mount Veeder AVA wines can be found on their website. Cheers! 

As good as it gets in Marin

There are many great restaurants in Marin, but with Restaurant Picco about a mile from my house, it's usually where I end up when I go out for dinner. The wine and cocktail selection never disappoints and the food is consistently delicious.

I met a friend at Picco last night; over the course of three hours, we ordered 5 dishes and 5 glasses of wine to share. 

To start, I opted for a glass of the 2009 Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Gris. It was crisp and clean with flavors of pear and green apple. Although refreshing and tasty on it's own, it was the perfect accompaniment to our first course of kampachi crudo and risotto with wax beans and peppers.

Meanwhile, my friend enjoyed the Italian 2010 Ceretto Blange Arneis--a slightly sweet white wine with stonefruit flavors and a medium body.

When the trio of sliders arrived, I quickly ordered a glass of the 2009 Bueyes Malbec from Argentina. Dark and juicy, this approachable red has been on the wine list for a while and I love it! It's also great with the thin-crust pizza served next door at the Pizzeria. 

The Malbec also paired nicely with the hen of the woods mushroom (a meaty mushroom grilled and served in a citrusy beurre blanc sauce). 

The luscious 2008 Lambert Bridge Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel was such a wonderful match for the rich, pungent cheese plate we had in lieu of dessert. For $14.95, the four-selection cheese plate with marcona almonds, fruit and grilled bread, this is the best cheese plate ever.

Why would I go anywhere else when Picco is as good as it gets?

Wonderful Weeknight Wines: Norton Malbec

Here is another wonderful weeknight wine I found at Costco. For $12.59, the 2009 Bodega Norton Reserva Malbec from Mendoza, Argentina is a pretty good wine.

It was purple-black in the glass and super-concentrated. One would think it would be tannic and harsh, but as with most Malbecs, it was high in color concentration but low in tannin. It was very smooth and opulent. 

But what really stood about this wine was its heady bouquet. It's rare that I come across a wine that I'd rather smell than drink, but the nose of this wine was intriguing and complex. The aromatics included purple flowers, boysenberry, rhubarb jam, and spice. The palate offered flavors of cherry pie, white pepper inflections, and cola, followed by a long finish.

This wine was great with mushroom pizza, but it could work just as well with red meat, pulled pork, or spicy Mexican food.

A beautiful day at Chappellet

When I took a tour of Chappellet Winery on Pritchard Hill back in March of 2009, I fell in love--with the property and its breathtaking views, my enthusiastic tour guide Candice, and of course, the amazing wines. To this day, it has been one of the most memorable wine tours I have ever had because it's an experience, not just a wine tasting. Most tours begin with a conservative splash of something white and then you walk around the winery with an empty glass. At Chappellet, you begin with a glass of Chardonnay inside the 41-year-old winery before heading out into the vineyards, a few more bottles of wine in tow.

As part of the tour, you walk through the crushpad, where there is a lot of action this time of year. And in the vineyard, you are encouraged to sample grapes off the vine. On the tour I took last year, Candice spoke passionately about the family history while she poured us the 2006 Merlot; she talked about the terroir as we tasted the 2006 Mountain Cuvee; she went into detail about the organic farming techniques while she poured us the 2006 Malbec; she told us about the grafting process as we sipped the 2006 Las Piedras Bordeaux-style blend; and the winemaking process was discussed at length, accompanied by the 2006 Signature Cabernet Sauvignon.

The wines I tasted then have since sold out with the help of some very significant scores from James Laube at Wine Spectator. The 2006 and 2007 vintages of the Signature Cab both received 94 points, and the high-end Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon was awarded 96 points for the 2007, 2006 and 2005 vintages. You'll never find scores in the Spectator for the Malbec, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Syrah, Las Piedras, or Cab Franc; just enough of these wines are made to go out to wine club members and are not nationally distributed.

Now I lead most of the tours at Chappellet, and it's just as fun to give the tour as it is to experience it as a consumer. Of the wines that I pour each day, my favorite is the 2007 Pritchard Hill Cab Franc.

Blended with 11% Malbec and 10% Cab, this is a Cab Franc that is juicy and lush with terrific structure. The powerful aromas of cherry, cola, and violet leap from the glass and open up to a full body of ripe raspberry and cocoa flavors intertwined with delicate spice notes. Velvety tannins give way to a finish that is long and smooth.

I tell my customers how versatile this wine is, but I like it so much, I am happy to drink it regardless of what I may (or may not) be eating. I hope you'll come visit us at Chappellet and taste this wine for yourself before it sells out!