When I think of wines from the Rhône Valley, I think of
juicy Grenache, meaty Syrah, and complex GSM blends. But the first wine that
wowed me at the 16th Annual Rhône Rangers Grand Tasting event in San Francisco this past weekend was a white wine. It reminded me of how tasty the white
Rhône varieties are—and with the weather warming up, this was a helpful
reminder!
When I arrived
at the Fort Mason Pavilion on Saturday afternoon, I didn’t have a plan of action. The
wineries were organized alphabetically so I started at Andrew Murray and strolled down to Davis Family Vineyards, a booth that was crowded and a winery I'd never heard of before.
I was very impressed with the Davis Family 2009 “Cuvee Luke”
($26/bottle). Named after their grandson and sourced from vineyards in the
Sierra Foothills, this refreshing white is a classic blend of Marsanne,
Roussane, and Viognier. It is opulent yet balanced with ripe fruit flavors and
lively acidity. The Davis Family Tasting Room is in Healdsburg and also offers
quite a few red wines including Pinot Noir, Zinfandel and Syrah.
I discovered a scrumptious Grenache from Mounts Family Winery, another Healdsburg-based winery. Their 2010 Grenache ($30/bottle) is estate-grown in the Dry Creek Valley. It is medium-bodied and luscious with plenty of red fruit on the palate and a finish that tastes like strawberries and spice.
My next stop was for the famed 2011 Grenache Blanc ($24/bottl)
from Two Shepherds Vineyards. Recently recommended by Jon Bonné in the SF
Chronicle, it is a delicious and super-limited production sourced from the
Santa Ynez Valley. Aged on the lees in a combination of neutral oak and
stainless steel, this white wine is abundant and persistent on the palate with
citrus. stone fruit, and excellent acidity. Winemaker and founder William Allen
uses an Old World, hands-off approach as he gently “shepherds” the grapes from
the vineyard to the bottle. His Grenache ($32/bottle) and Syrah ($35/bottle)
come from Russian River Valley and are very tasty with bright fruit and
delicate tannins.
The best Mourvedré I tasted was from Kenneth Volk Vineyards.
From the Enz Vinyeard in Lime Kiln Valley (San Benito County), the 2009 Mourvedré
is rich and succulent with notes of black cherry, licorice, and blueberry. If
you’re into “heirloom” wines, definitely check this winery out—they produce
wines that are not usually farmed in California, including Torrontes,
Aglianico, Negrette, and Tempranillo.
As I approached the end of the alphabet, I arrived at Zaca Mesa, a winery in Los Olivos that I visited about eight years ago. From
the vibrant 2010 Viognier (only $16/bottle!) to the tasty 2008 “Z Cuvee”
($20/bottle), the wines were just as enjoyable as I remembered them. Current
winemaker Eric Mohseni even poured me a little something special—the 2009 Black
Bear Block Syrah ($60/bottle), which stole the spotlight. It was powerful yet
elegant with flavors of blackberry, plum, and licorice. The Black Bear Block was named for the black bears that live nearby; it is the oldest remaining Syrah vineyard on the Central Coast and was the first planting of Syrah in the Santa Barbara County. It was truly a grand finale!
If you didn’t make it to the Rhône Rangers tasting this
year, I hope you can make it next year. It was a great event with so many fantastic producers. Thank you to the organizers and all of
the participants! There are RR events coming soon to Los Angeles (June 23rd)
and Chicago (September 11-12th).
Are you a fan of Rhône varieties? Who are your favorite producers of American Rhône wines?
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