Our journey to White Cottage in search of Sangiovese

About this time every year, White Cottage Ranch Winery releases their Howell Mountain Sangiovese. When I called this winery last summer to schedule a tour, I was amazed to hear that the Sangiovese had already sold out. Supposedly it sells out within days! In addition to the Sangiovese's popularity and thus brief availability, I've heard through the grapevine that White Cottage is a truly unique winery.

Was it worth the drive up to Angwin? Absolutely!

Mike, the Assistant Winemaker, came out to greet us. With a thick Boston accent and a friendly humor, he guided us to the well-polished table set with glasses and a tray of bread and olive oil. With a fireplace to our backs and big windows with views of the vineyards, I couldn't but feel right at home; this small parlor we were in exuded a warm coziness that many big wineries lack. Mike sat down with us and proceeded to open a crisp Chardonnay.

As we swirled the Chard, we admitted that we were particularly drawn to the Sangiovese. Mike assured us not to worry, that we'd get there in time (it's a good thing we cancelled our next appointment, we didn't leave until about 2 hours later!).

Before we tried the Sangiovese, we tasted the 2007 Contra Costa County Syrah (robust with gobs of vanilla and blackberry), 2006 Merlot (approachable and easy to drink), 2005 Cab Franc (wow, what a nose!), and two Cabs: 2006 "Risa" Cabernet Sauvignon and the 2005 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon.

Just as Mike was pulling the cork on the Howell Mountain Cab, we were joined by 4 walk-ins. They turned out to be Wine Club members, so they pulled up a chair and Mike grabbed extra glasses. The newcomers said they had been members for years, and they seemed particularly delighted to have arrived just in time for the Howell Mountain Cab. Undoubtedly, it was delicious--big and rich, with balanced fruit and earth, silky tannins and a long finish.

While keeping the atmosphere informal and light-hearted, the assistant winemaker shared lots of industry-related stories and vineyard-specific information about the wines as he poured them.

Finally, Mike brought out that bottle of the Sangiovese. Great acidity was balanced by a tight, mineral core while bright cherry fruit flavors and dusty tannins rounded out the palate. At $45 a bottle, it's not quite an everyday pizza wine, but it was very tasty. I highly recommend it (the Howell Mountain Cab was my second favorite).

One thing that all of these wines had in common was their accessibility; within seconds of being opened, these wines were in full form with attractive aromatics and overt flavors. When I'm not worried about keeping a wine for more than one day, I appreciate this kind of immediate gratification. I enjoyed all of the wines, even the Bordeaux-blend of jug wine that Mike opened last. I can't think of another Napa winery that produces wine in a jug. Indeed, a trip to White Cottage Ranch Winery is a very unique experience!